Of course, it isn't all leafy shrubs and fuzzy ducklings. First, it smells like melted dog-business. Second, spring brings with it the temperature changes and fluctuating precipitation that can leave expanses of roadway reduced to rubble.

Tis the season, alright. The season for frost heaves, cracked wheel rims and high-speed pothole dodging. Some drivers make a game of it, while others navigate road-craters at a crawling pace, slowing up traffic.

Some are even reminded of Guitar Hero, with an assortment of shapes streaming towards them between the edges of the hood. Maybe the video game folks should consider a title called Pothole Hero. It'd probably sell for less than the suspension damage likely to be caused by the real thing.

What's one of the main problems with potholes? They chew up and knock around your vehicle's suspension- resulting in damage and alignment issues.

Your vehicle leaves the factory with its steering and suspension components precisely 'aligned' to keep the wheels oriented in a very specific manner to the road- and to one another. This setup lays the foundation for vehicle handling and response in a variety of situations like cruising, steering, accelerating and braking. Nail a gorge in the roads surface, and that alignment could be thrown off- sometimes considerably.

Does your car try and steer itself, even when you want it to go straight? Have you noticed abnormal or accelerated tire wear? Does your steering vibrate or shimmy about, especially on bumps? Swear your vehicle has been acting funny since you whacked that teeth-rattling, coffee-spilling crater?

If you've answered yes to any of the above, chances are your alignment is out to lunch and will need some attention.

Don't worry, though.

It's a relatively inexpensive and painless procedure, sort of the automotive equivalent of a visit to the chiropractor.

You can check whether your vehicle is in need of an alignment in a matter of minutes on your own- no tools required. If your ride is properly aligned, its tires should wear evenly across. Any sign of uneven wear across the tread of a tire usually indicates a problem.

So, turn the steering wheel so that you can get a good look at the tread of the front tires. Is there more wear visible on the inside or outside of the tread? You may be able to tell straight away if the wear is severe- though a tread-depth gauge can help if you're not sure.

A second simple check involves travelling down a straight, flat and empty piece of roadway and releasing the steering wheel. If the vehicle tries to pull to one side or the other, the alignment may be out as well.

Most mechanics agree that an alignment should start and end with a test-drive. Tires should be in good shape with even wear before an alignment is carried out. If tires are worn unevenly and used after the alignment, they'll only make partial contact with the road- which is a safety issue. Although the unevenly worn tire can be a telltale sign of trouble, it should be replaced before having the alignment corrected.

The detrimental effects on safety caused by improper tire contact with the road's surface are not to be underestimated. The tire is the only part of your vehicle that touches the road- and it can dictate the effectiveness of steering and braking systems.

Remember, your vehicle's front end is comprised of several complicated systems that work together. Steering and suspension, for instance, contain many parts that can wear out over time- potholes or not. Occasional checks of these systems by a mechanic are vital to ensuring your vehicle operates as intended.

Been ignoring that shimmy in the steering or that pull whenever you brake? If so, you're prematurely wearing your tires, burning excessive fuel, and compromising your safety-as well as the safety of your passengers and fellow motorists. If your alignment or suspension is in need of service, you shouldn't expect your ride to perform favorably during braking or steering maneuvers, especially in an emergency.

Source: canadaeast.com

A little feet-dragging never hurt anyone, but this is the time to dust off one item-that bike in the corner that you've ignored during winter. Despite its size, you've managed to forget about it, but it is spring-the time of renewal. It's time to stop paying for overpriced parking passes that fund university bureaucracy, and overpriced gas that funds horrible governments that throw rocks and shoes at peoples' heads. It is time to start hammering and putting some miles under your feet. If you need advice or tools, a local bike collective can help. You can find the U Bike Collective at their bike hut across from the Utah Museum of Fine Arts or the Salt Lake City Bicycle Collective at their main store on 2312 S. West Temple.

If you stored your bike indoors, it will have been protected from corrosion and rust. But there are those who are real hammers, bundling up and making tracks in the slushy pot-holed streets of winter. They deserve our admiration and incredulous looks along with our comment: "That's crazy." But all those miles mean the bike is in need of some care.

"If it's winter time and you rode it real hard and commuted all year through the snow and salt, minor corrosion sets in," said Calvert Cruz, shop manager for Salt Lake City Bicycle Collective. "So if you don't constantly wash and tune your bike during winter to prepare for the spring to get it in order to really crank on it, really get on the road, really put some miles on it, you have to put a little more effort in order to tune your bike up."

In either case, here is a checklist for spring. Some of the work might require special tools.

In this great time of change, don't be afraid to roll up your shirtsleeves, or as Cruz said, "When you're preparing for spring riding, it's always advantageous to get into the nitty-gritty."

Chain

The chain can last up to 10,000 miles if cared for. Remove the rear tire and soak the chain in kerosene, brush any dirt off the chain and apply a new coat of oil to the whole chain. It's best to use an oil-gasoline mixture so it penetrates into the bushing (the hollow tube that connects the side plates). Keep oil off any rubber parts. Make sure the chain isn't sagging a lot when on the smallest sprocket (the back pointy gears) and smallest chain wheel (the front pointy gears). If it is, you can remove a few links and reattach it to make it tighter. To do this you'll need a chain tool, which pushes the pins out of the links. Keep the pin in the last link because reinserting it is a pain. Don't make a chain too short though, it needs some slack when it is on the large chain wheel and the large sprocket.

Tires

The tires need to be properly inflated using a tire gauge or a "thumb" test and a pump. Don't use gas station air outlets. There are two types of valves, the Presta and the Schrader, and they need to be matched to the proper pump head. If the tire is losing air, it has a hole in it and you need to remove the inner tube from the rim and the wheel. Fill it up and then dunk it in some water so the leak sends bubbles upward, verifying a leak. Roughen up the hole with fine sandpaper so the rubber cement can find a better hold. Let the rubber cement become opaque then apply to the patch and put on some pressure for a minute.

Make sure the wheel turns in a straight circle; if it wobbles, it needs to be trued. A truing stand and a spoke wrench will make this job a lot easier. Depending on the direction of the bend, you'll tighten one set of spokes and loosen the other. You do this where the spoke meets the rim, connecting in a nipple. If it wobbles right, loosen the right spokes and tighten the left spokes, about a one-half turn each and about three spokes on either side centered on the bend.

Brakes

Your brake blocks need to be centered on the rim and not touching the tire when you apply the brakes. The brake blocks need to have 1/8 of an inch of rubber showing past their holders. These can be simply adjusted with an Allen wrench. If the brakes are not responsive or too hard to squeeze then there needs to be an adjustment of the cable tension. This can be done with the fine adjustment knob, which you'll find either at the brake lever or at the cable housing stop. Or you can loosen the anchor bolt, which you can find by following the brake cable to the brakes, then either pull the cable tighter or looser and then retighten the anchor bolt.

Gears

Next, run through your gears, making sure the bike shifts smoothly and hits every gear. You don't want to ride with the chain on the biggest chain wheel and the smallest sprocket or vice versa. You'll need a bike stand to make derailleur adjustments. Move the chain to the largest chain wheel and the largest sprocket and make sure the chain is in line with the front and rear derailleur, then do the same with the smallest sprocket and the smallest chain wheel. If you need to adjust the cages, there is a small screw on the derailleur-either adjusting it higher or lower will move the cage so the chain stays on the drive train. If the chain is skipping one of the sprockets or chain wheels, then you adjust the tension in the shifting cable much like you do with the brake cable.

Bearings

Last, check your hubs (wheel axles), the bottom bracket (the crank axle), the head set (where the handlebars turn) and check to see if the grease needs to be replaced. Grease is just soap that holds oil, but because it's soap, it attracts dirt and water as well. You'll need a few cone wrenches to do this job. When you put it together, make sure the bearings turn easily but that they don't have any play.

"From there I'll take it for a spin and try to feel how it's riding; how it's responding to shifting," Cruz said.

Source: slccglobelink.com

I have been driving since the tender age of 17 and in that time I have been fortunate enough to avoid breaking down at the side of the road without assistance. Not the AA – my dad.

In eight years he has changed my tyres, topped up my oil and brought petrol when I have been stranded, because I couldn't see the fuel light flashing behind my cosmetics.

Now aged 25 and living more than 50 miles away from my parents, you would hope I had learnt a few basic breakdown survival skills. You would be wrong.

My inspiration for writing this feature was down to my total inability to put air in my tyres.

My dad assured me that no air would come out of them when I applied the pump and that the machine itself was self-explanatory.

What followed was a yell from my dad that I hadn't pushed the pump on hard enough and that I was letting air out, something he said would not happen.

So I threw the pump on the floor, stamped my feet a bit and jumped in my car shouting 'they don't need air in them anyway!'

After careful consideration I decided it was time I became more clued up about cars.

Peter Elliott is the service manager at Bristol Street Motors in Sunderland. He was the brave man who took up the challenge and gave me a guide to car maintenance.

He took me through, step by step, how to change a tyre, where to check for oil and coolant and what level they should be at.

Peter has worked for Bristol Street for 19 years and in that time he has seen hundreds of cars brought in by customers, who could have prevented or even fixed the problems themselves.

He said: "It is very important to regularly check your car. People don't realise that they are causing wear and tear on things like the engine. As a result the lifespan of the engine suffers.

"A lot of people don't know how to do basic checks or they simply don't bother. It's not until something goes wrong that they then ask for guidance. Just simple things like checking your oil or tyre pressure will make a massive difference."

Changing the tyre on a car was the most time- consuming of all the tips he gave me. Not only that but my hands got covered in dirt and you really have to work hard to unscrew the wheel nuts.

But there is something very satisfying when you lower the jack and your car doesn't tip over.

Peter said: "It is important to make the car as safe as possible when you are changing the tyre. Always remember to put on the handbrake and loosen the nuts as much as you can before raising the car up on the jack.

"You should aim to apply as little pressure as possible to the wheel while it is on the jack, as the last thing you want is the car to fall.

"It is especially important to know how to do this. You could be stranded anywhere. Also before you set off on a journey make sure you have the right tools to do it – they are no good in the house."

Tyre pressure is not only important to reduce damage to the tyres themselves but having them correctly inflated will save you money.

Peter said: "If you run your car with under- inflated tyres it will affect your fuel economy so you will get fewer miles for your money.

"It will cause damage that you won't be able to see but eventually it will build up."

Oil and coolant were next. Underneath the bonnet of a car is an intimidating place. There are wires and tubes heading in every direction.

Peter pointed out that the only parts I needed to touch were yellow, this made everything very simple.

They all have a maximum and minimum line so I am hoping that even I can remember these basics.

Peter did not want to comment on whether men are more clued up than women.

He said: "I think it's a bit of both. Men probably know a bit more but they don't make the time to do any of it.

"All it takes is 15 minutes every week to check the levels.

"You can even get hand-held gauges to check the tyre pressure so you only have to go to the garage to inflate them if the reading is low.

"Unnecessary wear and tear on your car caused by not doing regular easy checks will mean you have to bring it to us.

"We will have to charge you, so not only will regular checks prolong your car's internal lifespan but it will save you money."

Source: sunderlandecho.com

Taking good care of your car is an easy way to prolong its driving life and cut costs. All it takes is a few minutes every week or so to carry out the checks that will help to keep your car in tip top driving condition. We explain how:

Tyres:

Regularly checking your car's tyre pressure and keeping all 4 tyres correctly inflated will go a long way in cutting fuel consumption, reducing wear and tear and making your car safer on the road.

You car's optimum tire pressure (psi) should be detailed either in your handbook or in a 'convenient place' such as on the side of one of your doors.

It's always best to check your tyre pressure when your tyres are cold as the reading will be far more accurate and you'll avoid the risk of over-inflation. For this reason it can be a good idea to invest in a manual tyre pressure gauge and a foot pump and do it at home rather than driving your car to your nearest garage.

You will also need to check the depth of the tread on your tyres as this is subject to a legal minimum. The law states that the tread on your tyres should be at least 1.6mm deep across the central three quarter breadth and around the entire circumference of each, although a depth of at least 3mm is generally recommended for optimum grip.

You should also check for any bulges, cracks, cuts, or foreign objects stuck in your tyre.

Click here for our selection of car tyre pressure gauges and tread depth gauges

Oil:

Keeping your car’s oil levels topped up is a must if you want to keep it running at its best. If you’re not familiar with how to check your oil levels you should look in your car’s hand book to identify the dipstick, choose a time when your car’s engine is cold, pull out the dipstick, wipe it and dip it back in the engine as far as it will go. When you pull it back out you should be able to see whether your car’s oil level sits comfortably between the ‘minimum’ and ‘maximum’ markers.

If there is too little oil in your engine you should top it up with a suitable oil (you should check your car’s handbook to find out which type of oil is suitable for your car’s engine) – but be careful not to overfill though as this can do more harm than good.

To extend the life of your car’s engine it’s generally considered a good idea to have your oil changed either once a year or every 10,000 miles. This can usually be done as part of a service if you’re not sure how to do it yourself.

Lights:

Checking that your headlights, tail lights, brake lights, indicators, full beam and fog lights work is vital. You should replace any bulbs as soon as you realise they have blown (your instruction manual should explain how to do this) and it can be a good idea to keep a spare set in the boot just in case.

Brakes:

Regularly checking your brakes is a must for your own safety if nothing else. You can do this while you're on the move simply by feeling and listening to how your brakes respond when you want to slow down. If you notice any squeaking, your wheel vibrates, or the car veers to one side when you apply the brakes it's a good idea to get a specialist to take a look as leaving a brake-related problem unchecked could compromise your safety and end up seriously damaging your car and your bank balance.

Windscreen wipers:

Wiping your windscreen wiper blades with a cloth dipped in white vinegar will help to keep them in good condition and your windscreen sparkling and smear free. As soon as they start to leave dirty marks or small scratches on your windscreen it's time to change them. You should also make sure that your screenwash is topped up with an appropriate solution so that you don't get caught short.

Battery:

Your car battery should last you at least 4 or 5 years but with a little bit of tlc you may be able to extend this even further.

Try to remember to switch off your car's electronic controls before stopping your engine as this will allow the extra charge to run back into your battery and help to extend its life. This includes lights, windscreen wipers, heaters, air conditioning, heated seats, radios and cd players and any other electronic gadgets that are powered by your car's battery. Also, if at all possible, store your car in a garage when not in use. This is particularly beneficial during the winter months as car batteries don't respond well to the cold.

Bodywork:

Washing your car on a regular basis will not only help it to look shiny and new (even if it's years old) but will also prevent the build up of dirt, grime and potentially corrosive winter salt, helping to protect both the bodywork and other essential components from damage.

Servicing:

While getting your car serviced on a regular basis does up the cost of running your vehicle, ultimately it should save you money. This is because a well maintained car is likely to cause you fewer problems and require far fewer expensive repairs as it ages than one that has not had this attention.

You’re also likely to find that when you come to sell your car you’re able to command a far higher price (on both the private-sale and part-exchange markets) for a car with a complete service history than a car with an incomplete log book.

Once any initial warranty has expired you may find that you can cut the cost of a service considerably by using an ‘approved repairer’ rather than an official dealership so it’s worth ringing around to get some quotes.

Fuel:

It sounds obvious but always check that you're using the right pump when you fill up at the petrol station as getting it wrong can be a costly mistake.

If you do top up with the wrong fuel then it's essential that you get help right away as your car will need to be drained and assessed for damage. Trying to move, start or drive your car will only exacerbate the damage and make the situation a lot worse so keep it where it is until assistance arrives.

Source: money.co.uk

California has passed a new law requiring most auto servicing sites to check tire pressure at each visit and add air when necessary. The law will affect 40,000 businesses in the state, although the mandate does not effect body shops, car washes, glass repair shops, or parts stores. The state's government will let the service stations, smog-check stations, oil change places, and so on determine how much to charge for the check, and they must have a high-accuracy pressure gauge on hand. The tire pressure monitoring law will go into effect in July 1, 2010.

California's Air Resources Board says the state-wide law will save 75 million gallons of fuel per year, while also eliminating 700,000 metric tons of greenhouse gasses. That sounds mighty impressive, but if the Sacramento Bee is to believed, that's less than 0.5 percent of what California's greenhouse-gas reduction goals for 2020. Better is the CARB estimate that optimized tire pressure will save drivers about $12 per year (about six gallons of gas at today's prices), along with added safety and tire longevity benefits.

Those figures are based off statistics which show that vehicles lose 1% efficiency for every 3 psi a tire is low. Testing by Consumer Reports showed little or no impact on fuel economy when tire pressure is off by 10%, though most agree that low tire pressure will shorten the life of tires. Fewer tires in state landfills figures to be a good thing, too.

Source: autoblog.com

Seems like a lot, right? In fact, according to J.D. Power and Associates, most Americans probably don't make it that long. They say the average length of time owners keep their cars before trading them in is 73 months -- about six years.

Million-Mile Masters

For a few very loyal car owners, however, six years isn't much. Take Irv Gordon, whose 1966 Volvo P1800 made the Guinness Book of Records in 1998 for its incredibly high mileage. Gordon, the car's original owner, has now logged more than 2.6 million miles on trips and in daily driving. In interviews, Gordon attributed his car's extreme longevity to regular maintenance and his use of genuine Volvo parts.

Then there's Wisconsinite Peter Gilbert, who has logged more than a million miles in his 1989 Saab 900 SPG. MSN reports the durable vehicle, now on display in a museum, still features its original engine and turbocharger.

And let's not forget that domestic cars hit the million-mile mark just as often as their foreign competitors. In 2008, Frank Oresnik (coincidentally, another Wisconsinite) was just short of hitting the million-mile mark in his 1991 Chevrolet Silverado truck. Left Lane News reports that the truck has gone though four radiators, three gas tanks, five transmissions and six water pumps, but never a new engine.

Dependability vs. Longevity

Surprisingly enough, Swedish brands, while traditionally known to rack up the miles, aren't exactly known for their dependability. According to the J.D. Power and Associates 2009 Vehicle Dependability Study, Buick and Jaguar rank highest, while Saab and Volvo rank below average. The study measures problems experienced by original owners of three-year-old (2006 model year) vehicles and is based on more than 46,000 individual responses. So how can Volvos and Saabs last so long? The answer is that dependability and longevity aren't interchangeable.

"You could have a car that's structurally very sound and will last a long time but has problems along the way," explains David Sargent, J.D. Power's vice president of automotive research. "In that sense, reliability and durability are very different."

How to Go the Distance

If you love your car, you might dream of making it to the one-million-mile mark, too. But can it be done? The consensus seems to be that with regular maintenance and the necessary parts replacements over the years, most modern cars can go the distance.

According to Edmunds, the top five ways to make your car run "forever" are: Follow your service schedule, check fluids and tire pressure regularly, go easy during startup, use a single high-grade fuel, and drive smart. If you don't know much about maintenance basics, there are plenty of online resources available, as well as your car dealership or your favorite mechanic.

Most experts agree the best way to make your car last longer is to religiously follow the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual. In addition, make sure to check vital fluids every three months (especially engine oil and radiator coolant), pay attention to your car's gauges, regularly wash the car, and store it in a covered place. Even good driving habits can help minimize regular wear and tear.

Longevity or Bust

A few makes have had enough high-mileage success stories that they've created official clubs to commemorate them. Examples include the Honda Mile Makers and Volvo High Mileage clubs, which are open to owners who have logged 100,000 miles or more. There's even an online petition for a Ford high mileage club. As of April 2009, it had 671 online signatures.

Still, just because these automakers have clubs doesn't mean other makes won't last just as long. There's no scientific way to predict which cars or makes will last the longest. Maybe the only way to know is to see for yourself. Keep an open mind, do your research, and maintain, maintain, maintain - and your million-mile ride just might make the news next.

Source: http://usnews.rankingsandreviews.com

I have always maintained that you always replace both motorcycle tires at the same time because of the above reason and disregard the comments about how I got 10,000 miles on my rear tire and 18,000 miles on the front. When it comes to mechanical safety, start with your tires, then move to the brakes, controls, lights, and torque on bolts. The most important part of safety is what you know and how you handle that knowledge.

Last week, we covered Michelins 6 functions of the tire.

This week we will quote Dunlop from their website. And it should be restated that tire pressure is always going down due to escape through the rubber compounds. And, now with temperatures on the way up, for each 10 degrees of temperature, tire pressure can change by seveal pounds depending on the condition of the tire.

Importance of Motorcycle Tire Inflation Maintenance & Load Restrictions As the world leader in motorcycle tires, Dunlop continues to be concerned about the lack of attention paid by many cyclists to proper use and maintenance of their tires, particularly when fitted to motorcycles intended for touring.

Dunlop technical personnel have attended touring rallies all over North America to collect vital data and give instructional seminars.

What we have observed at these rallies alarms us; many touring riders are not following proper tire maintenance procedures.

The requirements for proper tire usage are not complicated, but they do require consistent attention.

Owners and operators of motorcycles should closely monitor vehicle loadings to insure they are within the maximum loads and corresponding inflation pressures for their tires. This basic load and pressure information is clearly stamped on the tire sidewalls.

The tire does not support the load-the air pressure does. The manufacturer's ratings for the maximum load and inflation pressure are critical tire design elements. If not observed, the handling and performance of your motorcycle will be greatly affected.

We have checked inflation pressures at several touring rallies and found a high percentage of rear tires to be underinflated. In addition, weight checks of the rear axles of these motorcycles indicated a number of tires were loaded beyond maximum capacity.

Our inspections have not been limited to those cycles fitted with Dunlop tires; the situation exists for all brands of tires.

Regardless of the make of tire, this is a serious problem. Riders of motorcycles with significantly underinflated and overloaded tires will experience handling and steering difficulty. In addition, this abuse will result in disappointing premature tire wear and may cause catastrophic tire failure.

The addition of accessories, cargo, and dual riding to touring motorcycles aggravates the problems of overloading and underinflation. The excessive flexing that results from underinflation or overload causes buildup of internal heat, fatigue cracking and eventual carcass breakup resulting in complete failure. A consequence of such failure may be an accident with serious personal injury or death.

The appearance of stress cracks in the tread grooves is one indicator of overload and/or underinflation. If you find evidence of tread groove cracking, you should remove and replace the tire immediately. This damage is permanent and non-repairable.

Our inspection of tires of various style and manufacture at rallies and our subsequent testing have confirmed that underinflation (and/or excessive load) causes tread groove cracking and can result in more serious damage within the tire body. Uneven wear may also accompany underinflated use. Failure to heed these visual warnings can result in tire failure or blowout.

The use of trailers can also contribute to tire damage and touring motorcycle instability. Although most motorcycle manufacturers recommend against their use, a percentage of the motorcycles we have inspected were so equipped. The trailer tongue weight added to an already heavily laden motorcycle can fail a rear tire. The percentage of overloaded motorcycle rear tires found during our inspection would have been higher if trailer tongue weight had been considered. The forces of rapid acceleration and deceleration may also multiply the effects of trailer tongue weight.

To get the maximum safe use out of your tires and maximum touring enjoyment you should:

• 1. Properly maintain all aspects of your vehicle in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Read and reread your motorcycle owner's manual.
• 2. Never exceed the loading and accessories restrictions found in your motorcycle owner's manual, or the maximum load displayed on the tire sidewalls. Know your loaded vehicle weight!
• 3. Check air pressure at frequent, regular intervals, particularly just before and during long trips. Always use an accurate tire gauge* and check pressures only when the tires are cold (i.e., wait one hour after running). We have found many cheap gauges to be off more than 5 psi, so be sure to use a top quality gauge and preferably one that retains the pressure reading until reset!
• 4. Inspect your tires as often as possible. Look for irregular wear, any signs of cracking in the sidewalls and tread, blisters, knots, cuts or punctures. Immediately remove and replace damaged tires.

If in doubt, ask your motorcycle tire dealer to check your loading, inflation and tires. Remember, your tires stand between you and a serious accident.

For touring motorcycle loading, follow these general guidelines:

• 1. Light loads-single rider with some luggage (up to 200 lb. total)-minimum tire pressure of 32 psi front and 36 psi rear must be maintained.
• 2. Heavier loads-dual riding and/or luggage (from 200 lb. total up to maximum motorcycle capacity stated in the owner's manual)-pressure of 36 psi front and 40 psi rear must be maintained.

Please Note:
For any dual riding or fully loaded use, 40 psi must be maintained in all Dunlop rear tires fitted to touring motorcycles.

In addition to following these recommendations, notice what your tires are telling you while you're riding. If your steering response is slow or mushy, or if cornering and braking response is heavy, there's a good chance your tires are underinflated. Vibration or wobble may signal that actual tire damage has occurred and failure is imminent!

If you conscientiously follow our recommendations, you will enjoy better, longer, and safer tire performance and many, many miles of touring pleasure.

Until Next time, we will have more on tires.

Source: hometownannapolis.com

The state Air Resources Board on Thursday adopted a resolution requiring auto repair shops to check tire pressure every time drivers bring in their vehicle for maintenance, oil changes and smog tests. The next step is to develop detailed rules to implement the mandate, which will take effect in July 2010.

Regulators say widespread awareness of having properly inflated tires could lead to California motorists saving 75 million gallons of gasoline a year and using 700,000 fewer tires.

Last summer, Republicans mocked then-candidate Obama for suggesting that proper tire inflation would save oil and should be part of an energy-conservation plan.

The Republican National Committee and John McCain's presidential campaign handed out pressure gauges labeled "Obama Energy Plan." The debate died after several days when McCain acknowledged that he also thought tire maintenance was a good idea.

The U.S. Department of Energy estimated at the time that proper tire inflation can boost gas mileage by about 3.3 percent. It recommends the step along with regular tuneups, replacing dirty air filters and removing unneeded items from the trunk.

Routine tire checks are no laughing matter to California regulators,who hope the idea spreads to other states.

The action taken Thursday is one of nine early steps California is taking under a 2006 law requiring the state to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by a third—or to 1990 levels—by 2020.

Members of the Air Resources Board urged the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency to adopt similar requirements nationally.

"We are providing leadership not just for the country but the world," said James Goldstene, the board's executive officer.

State regulators estimate tires are severely or moderately underinflated on more than half of California's nearly 30 million passenger vehicles. Poorly inflated tires can lead to blowouts, in addition to wasting fuel and adding to greenhouse gas emissions.

"California is renowned for its love affair with the car," said Margo Reid Brown, chairwoman of the California Integrated Waste Management Board, which promotes recycling and other waste-cutting steps. "It's going to save the environment and it's going to save you money."

The requirement drew support from organizations representing tire manufacturers and the roughly 40,000 California auto shops that will be routinely required to check tire inflation.

But Pamela Williams, vice president of the California Retailers Association, urged the air board to reduce the additional costs projected for auto shops. Regulators predict equipment and labor costs, as well as money to buy a new manual, could add about $100 million a year.

Williams said those costs would likely be passed along to customers.

The board agreed to reconsider requiring shops to buy $50 tire-inflation manuals and $25 calibrated pressure gauges before it adopts final regulations by year's end. Many shops already offer tire checks for free.

"This isn't rocket science," Williams said. "We're talking about putting air into a tire."

The California regulation eventually could become obsolete because of advances in automotive technology, including pressure-monitoring systems built into new vehicles and improvements to tires that would reduce air loss.

Source: mercurynews.com

It's the reason he and his team of licensed technicians feels it's as important to form a good relationship with their customers as it is to maintain their vehicles well.

"As an industry, we want you to be informed and to be part of the decision making. We want you to be aware of concerns -- as a consumer you have a right to know. And though we will make recommendations, you have every right to make the choices."

It's spring and the season of change -- a major time of change for automotive vehicles, Fusek points out. Winters are usually rough on cars and on roads, but the heat of summer also plays a part in automotive performance and condition. He suggests people play safe and have a thorough inspection well before the roads get crowded and holidays are being planned.

Accidents are all too often caused by underinflated tires, Fusek says, and it's most important to ensure tire pressure is monitored with every fuel fill up in summer. Any indication of underflated tires is a reason for inspection.

"It's a simple test," he says. "You can maintain this on your own with a tire pressure gauge, which is very inexpensive. If you've not used one before, come in and our representatives will be happy to show you. We even go out to show people how to use them, or we'll check the pressure on their tires ourselves -- for free."

Fusek points out that condition of the tire itself is key to today's driving safety. Technology has made important advances in tires and though radial tires have many advantages, they are also good at masking problems. For instance, the car may be tracking straight, but the tires may be wearing unevenly after months of driving over potholes.

An experienced technician will be able to check for current and pending wear problems.

Consumers are always welcome to ask Canadian Tire automotive reps for advice, he says. Building a relationship with the customer is an important part of company policy, and communication is key.

When it comes to oil and filter changes, most consumers realize their importance and have them done regularly -- refer to your owner's manual for this and all checks. It's paramount to change oil in the spring, Fusek says, so any time now good, and will combat the condensation built up in the crank case over the winter.

"As an individual, you can do a complete walkaround of all vital fluids, but we strongly recommend a seasonal service, which is more thorough."

All fluids -- oil, transmission, brake and coolant -- will be checked, and particular attention paid to achieving the right coolant strength. Also checked by your service technician will be the battery and its charging components, suspension; brakes and their various components; all belts, hoses, cables and wires; the cooling system and engine management system, exhaust and steering and suspension

"People's safety is our number one priority," Fusek says. "Refer to your manual and heed the advice of your service provider, especially when it comes to preventive maintenance. We like to identify something when it's a preventive issue rather than safety issue. That's when it's the least expensive to fix."

Source: stcatharinesstandard.ca